Incredible India

Culture shock is defined as a feeling of disorientation by someone who is subjected to an unfamiliar culture, way of life, or set of attitudes. So it's plausible to say for the last month I've been going through culture shock. Which to some extent explains why I haven't been able to blog. Most nights I just want to hide under my blankets with a bottle of gin, I'm not a big drinker but like people say, India changes you. Where to begin when summarizing the past 30 days do I start with the first time I saw a herd of hip-cows traipsing about through the street (I later found out these very ugly animals are water buffaloes) or do I start with the first time I saw a kid shit on the road? India is equal parts fascinating and frustrating, never have I been to a country that has challenged me so much mentally and emotionally. It's certainly not for everyone and the consensus from travellers I've met is that yes, India is definitely the hardest country we have all backpacked in.

This is India...
It's loud and it's loud all the time, one of my favourite ways to explore my surroundings is by walking, and in India this is no easy feat. In every city I've been to but one (Udaipur) the minute you step out your door your being harassed by touts and rickshaw drivers, horns are blasting every other second, and the locals scream at one another just to be heard. At night we are often woken up by what we now refer to as the midnight symphony which is countless stray dogs howling away. As I'm writing this I can hear horns blaring, there's two guys talking loudly outside my room, and I think I heard a bomb go off in the distance.

India is dirty with barnyard animals running loose one must watch where they step to avoid stepping in a pile of shit, it's not just the cows and water buffaloes running around there's dirty pigs and donkeys in the mix too. Along with the animal feces is human feces and puddles of urine one must avoid. With no public toilets around I shouldn't have been surprised there was no garbage cans in sight. Remember a few blogs back I wrote about my biggest peeve being litter... well in India garbage is everywhere. I have not caved in and joined the masses, I just can't do it. The other day I asked around for a garbage because sometimes India will pleasantly surprise you, he pointed to the street I said sorry that doesn't sit well with me, he smiled and gave me a head bob. The guy next to him called me over and pointed to a pail that he was using as a garbage I happily unloaded my garbage that I was carrying around for over an hour.

With a population over 1.2 billion I wasn't expecting the people to be one of my favourite things about India. Expect the unexpected in India. There has been some unpleasant experiences in India on account of the crowds, no one loves getting pushed around, having your feet trampled on, and being shoulder checked all the time. Surrounded by the chaos I've had encounters with locals that almost if not completely make up for being a human ping pong ball. I once had a pleasant conversation with a couple of women, all the while I was trying not to get knocked out of the moving train. When traveling I'm always moved by the kindness shown to me by strangers, in Kolkata when part of me fell in between the train and platform two girls came running to my rescue and pulled me up. I hugged them and thanked them as I was sure I was seconds away from a rat nipping at my foot. Walking down the street with hundreds of others going in all directions I'm often surprised when someone greets me with a quick good morning and a smile as they pass me by. In Agra I passed a group of school children one came running up to me said hello shook my hand, and then quickly ran back to his friends. Once they saw that I wasn't so scary, I was suddenly surrounded by little humans shaking my hands and saying hello in between their giggles.

The transportation in India is surprisingly drama free, I've spent countless hours on the Indian rails making my way from south to north then east to west. For the most part I have enjoyed the train rides, I slip on my headphones and let the music take me away. The longest train ride was 28hrs which I spent on a top bunk with a curtain closing me off from the rest of the world, this gave me some much needed recharging time. It was on my third 20hr train ride that the novelty of the train began to wear off and I felt restless. So we switched it up and took buses to get from point a to point b. To date the buses are an acceptable alternative to trains and not unlike Thailand they blast the a/c when it's not necessary and the seats aren't exactly comfortable, but the big windows more than make up those minor inconviences.

The men yes the men deserve their own category. As a white woman travelling through India I was warned beforehand about "Indian men." At first I found it unnerving every time I looked up I saw a man staring at me and sometimes the looks were a bit...intense, they will look you up and down, and lick their lips. On my first train ride one elderly man took it step further and pinched my butt. A close second on my list of frustrating things about Indian men is being ignored, there have been several times Andy would have to order my food for me or book our train tickets as when I tried to do it, it was like I was invisible. Luckily this wasn't always the case, I've had friendly men point me in the direction of my guest house, help me with my monster backpack, and ask my opinion on their hairstyle. Sometimes the friendliness goes to far the other way and I find myself on a rooftop with Mr. Rico Suave's arm around me. The next day I'm bombarded with questions to determine if I'm single by Mr. Rico Suave's younger brother, he also throws in some helpful advice to avoid coming off to strong like his brother. At the end of our stay he gave me a piece of paper that reads "Thank You" I'm still not sure what he's thanking me for perhaps it's the time he came to see how the shower was and I answered the door in my towel?

The poverty is heartbreaking, with India having the second largest population in the world I knew I'd see poverty I just wasn't expecting to see so much of it or have it so in my face. It's hard to walk by it Every Fucking Day and it hasn't become any easier 30 days later. Never have I seen so many homeless children, I smile at them hiding my watery eyes, later at night I sit back in my room and wonder how can I help them, I still have no answers. China's two children policy or whatever it is, doesn't seem like such a bad idea now. It didn't get better or worse as I travelled from south to north, and then east to west. As soon as you get off the train you are making your way through the families that sleep at the train station and once at your guest house you are making your way through the families on the streets. While incredibly heartbreaking it's another reminder of how fortunate I am, and that I need to do what I can to help those less fortunate.

The Taj Mahal, one of the seven wonders of the world, and regarded by many as one of the most beautiful building in the world. Andy and I pay the 750 foreigner price (locals pay 20) and make our way through security. I was given a laughable pat down where she touched my boobs, felt my jacket pockets and then sent me to someone who goes through my bags. I wait for my bag to be handed back to me as I have nothing but my camera, wallet, toilet paper, and frank my stuffed monkey in there. The security guard holds up my monkey and loudly declares that I can't bring this in, I laugh thinking it's a joke and grab it. Suddenly another security guard comes up to me and advises me that no toys allowed, I look at him dumbfounded and ask if he's being for real right now? I begin to get agitated as this makes no sense to me, I stop myself from speaking any further as I know nothing great is about to come out of my mouth and I walk away. I mutter under my breath and consider where I can stash this dangerous toy, when suddenly a shop owner appears and offers to watch over Frank. Crisis averted and believe me I'm well aware that I am a 31 year old woman who almost lost her shit over not being able to take her stuffed monkey into the Taj Mahal. India makes you crazy and crave gin. Anyways... as someone whose obsessive over symmetry I am in love with the Taj Mahal and appreciate the beauty of the details. It feels surreal to be standing in front of it and being able to admire it up close. I'm politely asked on numerous occasions to pose for pictures with Indian males, I oblige and feel my ego start to become inflated.

From Trivandrum to Madurai, a brief stop over in Chennai, up to Kolkata, then Bodhgaya, on to Varanasi, down to Khajuraho, over to Udaipur, up to Pushkar, further up to Jaipur, and then on to Agra, and finally New Delhi. This blog my friends is the short version of the past month. I'm headed to Rishikesh at the foothills of the Himalayas' and will be spending the next however long in an ashram, for some much needed relaxation.